18th and 19th April
Wednesday 18th
A fair nights sleep back at the oasis which is needed as we are exhausted after our four day epic repair. We drive back into Guelmim by mid day to tie up loose ends. The van goes well and in fact seems to be quieter and less smoky than before this all started. We need a good run in her to gain confidence but first we will return to Amine and he will fill her up with anti freeze as well as have a listen to the motor. He can tell a lot by listening as all good mechanics should! He says it sounds great and it should run for years without a hitch! but if we'd like to bring a full gasket kit, big end bearings and piston rings, he would be happy to recondition the whole engine and it would be like new! A tempting offer! We say our goodbyes and join Chouchou and Ali for lunch as a camel cous cous has been prepared for us as a fairwell gesture! It was delicious and we enjoyed saying our goodbyes as we left them after an intense four days of their company.
Without them, we cannot imagine how things would have worked out. With them, they have helped us through to the end and all is well! They have been handsomely rewarded and we are happy to oblige. This is Morocco, money goes a lot further here. What we call a modest sum is actually rather a lot to a Moroccan family.
So it's 4.30 by the time we leave and Tiznit is our destination. It's about 60 miles and has a mountain pass as well as a main road. A good test for the van.
She goes really well, as well as ever if not better! We could not be more relieved at her performance. Only yesterday the engine was in half and today we are powering up to Tiznit at up to 60 mph, full speed ahead.
We're on the road again.
Thursday 19th April
So Thursday is souk day in Tiznit, which is a good day to be here for us as our first visit to the souk here was with Jaimie two years ago and we had a great time then and are sure it will be eventful again.
We weren't to be disappointed.
Our first port of call was the plastic carpet man. We want a new 'carpet' for outside our van. The old one is a bit tatty now and we bought it with Jaimie. So straight to that part of the souk that we already know. Trying to just have a look in Morocco is impossible. We hid behind rolls of carpet hoping to just take a peep and up jumps the owner in fluent Arabic, hand shakes and cheek kisses, which one do you want?
We don't know, just looking, 'this one ? this one? how much of that one, 2 metre, 3 metre? ' Phew, give us break mate but yes, this one , how much? That's got to be in 'Rials' surely! 2800, now divide it by 2 and take off a nought, that's 140 Dirhams . Why do they count like this? The old way we suppose. Still, the carpet we go for costs 140 dirhams for 4 metres, that's 700 Rials a metre!?!
We carry our new carpet around the corner to a know restaurant of high esteem! This tiny little cafe was Jaimies choice two years ago for somewhere authentic to eat! It only sold haricot beans then and the menu has not changed. A small bowl and some bread is served, followed by mint tea. We even get a little extra as a gift! The owner is an 82 year old fellow who happily poses for this photo.
He is a delightful fellow who, it has to be said is remarkable for his age. We try to explain that we have eaten here before but our Arabic is almost useless. Well it is useless if you want to say more than hello and two loaves of bread please!!
On to the carrot man, another delightful chap who heartily encourages us to talk and take part in the selection of his wares! He also allows a stunning photo to be taken
As we wait to move on, three beautifully dresses women float past us being led by their husband, we assume. They stop in front of us and all smile and say hello. I was mesmerized, these eyes coming from behind their veils with warmth and a lot of sparkle, phew, took my breath away. We followed them and I stole a photo, I could not resist.
The next four photos are taken with El Ayachi Benhmar, a cucumber seller as we were about to find out.
Now whether it was Ayachi's intention to make such a daring gesture towards Krysia, we will never know but laugh, we couldn't stop! And I congratulated him on his audacity, assuming he knew what he was doing!!!!
As Krysia said ' watch out for what vegetable he hands you Ted! '
On to our last photo of the day, which is Rachid holding a more innocent bunch of Nana.
Which is Moroccan mint!
A lovely souk. On the way back, we passed through the back streets of town amongst the local folk going about their business. Some might say the dodgy part of town but we have become used to seeing through the appearance and find the gentle folk of Morocco that we come to be with! everyone says hello and touches their hearts. They certainly touch ours.
Lots of love
Ted and Krysia xxx
Wednesday 18th
A fair nights sleep back at the oasis which is needed as we are exhausted after our four day epic repair. We drive back into Guelmim by mid day to tie up loose ends. The van goes well and in fact seems to be quieter and less smoky than before this all started. We need a good run in her to gain confidence but first we will return to Amine and he will fill her up with anti freeze as well as have a listen to the motor. He can tell a lot by listening as all good mechanics should! He says it sounds great and it should run for years without a hitch! but if we'd like to bring a full gasket kit, big end bearings and piston rings, he would be happy to recondition the whole engine and it would be like new! A tempting offer! We say our goodbyes and join Chouchou and Ali for lunch as a camel cous cous has been prepared for us as a fairwell gesture! It was delicious and we enjoyed saying our goodbyes as we left them after an intense four days of their company.
 |
| A present from Chouchou |
 |
| Krysia with the lads |
Without them, we cannot imagine how things would have worked out. With them, they have helped us through to the end and all is well! They have been handsomely rewarded and we are happy to oblige. This is Morocco, money goes a lot further here. What we call a modest sum is actually rather a lot to a Moroccan family.
So it's 4.30 by the time we leave and Tiznit is our destination. It's about 60 miles and has a mountain pass as well as a main road. A good test for the van.
She goes really well, as well as ever if not better! We could not be more relieved at her performance. Only yesterday the engine was in half and today we are powering up to Tiznit at up to 60 mph, full speed ahead.
We're on the road again.
Thursday 19th April
So Thursday is souk day in Tiznit, which is a good day to be here for us as our first visit to the souk here was with Jaimie two years ago and we had a great time then and are sure it will be eventful again.
We weren't to be disappointed.
Our first port of call was the plastic carpet man. We want a new 'carpet' for outside our van. The old one is a bit tatty now and we bought it with Jaimie. So straight to that part of the souk that we already know. Trying to just have a look in Morocco is impossible. We hid behind rolls of carpet hoping to just take a peep and up jumps the owner in fluent Arabic, hand shakes and cheek kisses, which one do you want?
We don't know, just looking, 'this one ? this one? how much of that one, 2 metre, 3 metre? ' Phew, give us break mate but yes, this one , how much? That's got to be in 'Rials' surely! 2800, now divide it by 2 and take off a nought, that's 140 Dirhams . Why do they count like this? The old way we suppose. Still, the carpet we go for costs 140 dirhams for 4 metres, that's 700 Rials a metre!?!
 |
| Abdul Aziz, the charming carpet man |
 |
| His son, Abdul Ibhir |
 |
| Mohammed and Krysia |
On to the carrot man, another delightful chap who heartily encourages us to talk and take part in the selection of his wares! He also allows a stunning photo to be taken
 |
| The Carrot man |
 |
| The Tafraoute Ladies |
Now whether it was Ayachi's intention to make such a daring gesture towards Krysia, we will never know but laugh, we couldn't stop! And I congratulated him on his audacity, assuming he knew what he was doing!!!!
As Krysia said ' watch out for what vegetable he hands you Ted! '
On to our last photo of the day, which is Rachid holding a more innocent bunch of Nana.
Which is Moroccan mint!
A lovely souk. On the way back, we passed through the back streets of town amongst the local folk going about their business. Some might say the dodgy part of town but we have become used to seeing through the appearance and find the gentle folk of Morocco that we come to be with! everyone says hello and touches their hearts. They certainly touch ours.
Lots of love
Ted and Krysia xxx
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