29th and 30th March
Thursday was mainly a day around the van, chatting with campers, chores and just being here! The day started with a skype call from Chinch in holtsfield and a skype text chat from Adam in Thailand! Skype eh!? What would we do without it? Write letters I suppose.
We need some Corn Flakes for tomorrows breakfast! so off we go on a late afternoon visit to Taghazout to get the supplies and have a wander. Driving past Anchor point evokes many memories. It looks such a small piece of land now, the bit we all camped on. No vans now, not allowed? for whatever reason the police think, it's a shame because the old surfer van culture has nowhere to be. The point is where you would want to park as the surf is there. The campsite we are in is about a mile around the corner and although a splendid place to be, is not quite the surfer paradise Anchor was in it's day. The surfers come by plane nowadays so it's still a surf mecca, just a different type. All in the past, let it go and get on with the day.
Taghazout is a very different village now, surf city a la Maroc. We take it for what it is and go straight to the little beach to take in the atmosphere.
Life goes on here, old alongside new with fishermen caring for their boats and working alongside holidaymakers basking in the sun and learning to surf.
The apartments grow year by year, bringing more tourists and more money. One local tells us that the money largely goes straight back out to Europe, with payment on the internet and ownership abroad, the large prices charged for surf school holidays is of no help to the local people. Is he right, I don't know. But you can rent a room here from locals at about £12 a night. Local surf shops have all the kit for hire or purchase and business is needed. Buy local was his message, please!!
A good place for a holiday is Taghazout, charming locals will help you relax and have a good time.
These lads just wanted to have their photo taken for the fun of it and wished us a good time in their town
We walk the beach past gorgeous scantily clad local young ladies, who no doubt know many ways to help the touists relax!!! No photo's please, in fact no need to look, I have my own gorgeousness with me!
Aren't I a lucky man.
Friday 30th March
I'll start today with a photo of me! Taken by our friend Zacarius, he's not used a camera like mine before and we think he should get one as this is a pretty good portrait for a first shot!
So after a long breakfast and a chat with next door, a rather remarkable day was about to unfold. Little did we know what we had in store for us as we innocently went for a quick spin on the bike up into the hills behind the campsite.
It's a dirt track we follow which leads us swiftly onto the plateau above
At each junction we come to, a quick decision is made on which road to take as we have no destination in mind! 'If you don't know where you're going, Any road will take you there.' George Harrisson
The dirt track joins a tarmac one before fizzling out again into another rough road, it's good driving on the bike which goes well. We come to a sign post and the direction becomes clear!!!
So obviously we turn left! And before long we arrive at our destination, which nestles under a larger mountain. We have no idea where we are but we think we are about to arrive, well, go no further.
The road is steep but well used by Ford Transits! , so if they can make it? So can we.
We arrive at a small Mosque in a village and stop! We are here. and that's as far as we go today which is about 10 miles from the campsite. The view is stunning so we sit next to the Mosque soaking up the atmosphere, which is heightened by the fact that it's Friday and the prayer session is in full chant.
Donkeys are parked while the owners pray
And their voices infuse the air with a spiritual breath. The donkeys join in too. We are mesmerized and sit in awe. Krysia suggests making a movie so we can record the sound. I say no, surely that's an intrusion but yet again, not a bad idea! So I film the donkeys and make a fool of myself in front of the camera, I think because I feel a bit naughty and therefore I act like a child pretending to be David Attenborough but very silly!?! The sound coming out of the Mosque was from the communal chanting, with mumblings and verse mixing to produce a heavenly sound! Then it was over and gentle folk began to flow out of the door. It was then that a smiling charming man approached us, speaking in English and wishing us welcome. 'Would we like some couscous ?' he asked. 'Well, umm, yes please if that's what you would, um I mean , thank you!! that is most kind of you.' I replied. ' No problem, it is couscous day here in Tizi and you are most welcome ' he says and disappears leaving us a little lost for words! He returns quite soon after with a large plate of today's feast. They are all now eating and laughing in the Mosque and we are there guests, outside of course as we are not Muslim.
Sitting with our meal looking suitably blown away
We sit next to the well and slowly eat our lovely meal, meat and vegetables on a huge bed of couscous. We eat our fill and are promptly served tea! This must be a dream. The local folk are charming and our host tells us that this hospitality is normal up here in the mountains! After all he says ' One God, One world, One people. You and I are the same ' This is the real Morocco.
We take a last deep breath of this beautiful place and head out of Tizi back towards the sea
Just before reaching the coast I decide to take a left to see what's along the cliff road!
And we find Mbarek! At least the road comes to an end at his parents house and no sooner do we stop than his mum, Fatima and Mbarek come out of their doorway and greet us with handshakes and warmth.
Mbarek asks us if we would like a tour of his neighbourhood and we reply of course, why not!
Although he has injuries since a child, he energetically and joyfully leads us past the Germans house and on to the cliffs overlooking the campsite. Leading us with his mobile phone as a radio, he plays a Berber station and sings along happily to tunes he obviously knows off by heart.
He speaks well in French, little English and of course Berber and Arabic.
He's a lovely fellow and wants no more than our company.
We sit and chat, he tells us tales of his birthplace and he mentions the difficulties of getting around with a disability, as a tourist on a quad bike plays in the distance. 'I'd like one of those' he says.
He spends a lot of his life up here above the sea but you get the feeling that he would like to be able to get out more. But this does not stop him from smiling and being a most gentle host.
A chap passes who wants his mobile phone tuned into radio stations and Mbarek quickly performs the task and says ' Take his photo, he won't mind '!
Back at the house , which is stunning, Dad is waiting to greet us, tea and hospitality of course. Mum is busily making Argan oil the traditional way. By hand! It is fascinating to see and be told the process first hand. It is hard work, the two and half litres she makes have taken the whole day to prepare. We are given a small bottle to take away with us and are invited to eat bread, oil and eggs. Washed down with tea of course.
This last photo is a stunner, with Fatima offering Krysia this intimacy with a smile. It just happens and in a moment two mums connect, one whose son has been compromised most of his life and the other whose sons life......well, love you Jon.
It has been a most remarkable day. We are blessed with this life we have and are constantly reminded of how fortunate we are. Love you Jaimie
Love to you all
Ted and Krysia xxx
Thursday was mainly a day around the van, chatting with campers, chores and just being here! The day started with a skype call from Chinch in holtsfield and a skype text chat from Adam in Thailand! Skype eh!? What would we do without it? Write letters I suppose.
We need some Corn Flakes for tomorrows breakfast! so off we go on a late afternoon visit to Taghazout to get the supplies and have a wander. Driving past Anchor point evokes many memories. It looks such a small piece of land now, the bit we all camped on. No vans now, not allowed? for whatever reason the police think, it's a shame because the old surfer van culture has nowhere to be. The point is where you would want to park as the surf is there. The campsite we are in is about a mile around the corner and although a splendid place to be, is not quite the surfer paradise Anchor was in it's day. The surfers come by plane nowadays so it's still a surf mecca, just a different type. All in the past, let it go and get on with the day.
Taghazout is a very different village now, surf city a la Maroc. We take it for what it is and go straight to the little beach to take in the atmosphere.
Life goes on here, old alongside new with fishermen caring for their boats and working alongside holidaymakers basking in the sun and learning to surf.
The apartments grow year by year, bringing more tourists and more money. One local tells us that the money largely goes straight back out to Europe, with payment on the internet and ownership abroad, the large prices charged for surf school holidays is of no help to the local people. Is he right, I don't know. But you can rent a room here from locals at about £12 a night. Local surf shops have all the kit for hire or purchase and business is needed. Buy local was his message, please!!
A good place for a holiday is Taghazout, charming locals will help you relax and have a good time.
These lads just wanted to have their photo taken for the fun of it and wished us a good time in their town
We walk the beach past gorgeous scantily clad local young ladies, who no doubt know many ways to help the touists relax!!! No photo's please, in fact no need to look, I have my own gorgeousness with me!
Aren't I a lucky man.
Friday 30th March
I'll start today with a photo of me! Taken by our friend Zacarius, he's not used a camera like mine before and we think he should get one as this is a pretty good portrait for a first shot!
So after a long breakfast and a chat with next door, a rather remarkable day was about to unfold. Little did we know what we had in store for us as we innocently went for a quick spin on the bike up into the hills behind the campsite.
It's a dirt track we follow which leads us swiftly onto the plateau above
At each junction we come to, a quick decision is made on which road to take as we have no destination in mind! 'If you don't know where you're going, Any road will take you there.' George Harrisson
The dirt track joins a tarmac one before fizzling out again into another rough road, it's good driving on the bike which goes well. We come to a sign post and the direction becomes clear!!!
So obviously we turn left! And before long we arrive at our destination, which nestles under a larger mountain. We have no idea where we are but we think we are about to arrive, well, go no further.
The road is steep but well used by Ford Transits! , so if they can make it? So can we.
We arrive at a small Mosque in a village and stop! We are here. and that's as far as we go today which is about 10 miles from the campsite. The view is stunning so we sit next to the Mosque soaking up the atmosphere, which is heightened by the fact that it's Friday and the prayer session is in full chant.
Donkeys are parked while the owners pray
And their voices infuse the air with a spiritual breath. The donkeys join in too. We are mesmerized and sit in awe. Krysia suggests making a movie so we can record the sound. I say no, surely that's an intrusion but yet again, not a bad idea! So I film the donkeys and make a fool of myself in front of the camera, I think because I feel a bit naughty and therefore I act like a child pretending to be David Attenborough but very silly!?! The sound coming out of the Mosque was from the communal chanting, with mumblings and verse mixing to produce a heavenly sound! Then it was over and gentle folk began to flow out of the door. It was then that a smiling charming man approached us, speaking in English and wishing us welcome. 'Would we like some couscous ?' he asked. 'Well, umm, yes please if that's what you would, um I mean , thank you!! that is most kind of you.' I replied. ' No problem, it is couscous day here in Tizi and you are most welcome ' he says and disappears leaving us a little lost for words! He returns quite soon after with a large plate of today's feast. They are all now eating and laughing in the Mosque and we are there guests, outside of course as we are not Muslim.
Sitting with our meal looking suitably blown away
We take a last deep breath of this beautiful place and head out of Tizi back towards the sea
Just before reaching the coast I decide to take a left to see what's along the cliff road!
And we find Mbarek! At least the road comes to an end at his parents house and no sooner do we stop than his mum, Fatima and Mbarek come out of their doorway and greet us with handshakes and warmth.
Mbarek asks us if we would like a tour of his neighbourhood and we reply of course, why not!
Although he has injuries since a child, he energetically and joyfully leads us past the Germans house and on to the cliffs overlooking the campsite. Leading us with his mobile phone as a radio, he plays a Berber station and sings along happily to tunes he obviously knows off by heart.
He speaks well in French, little English and of course Berber and Arabic.
He's a lovely fellow and wants no more than our company.
We sit and chat, he tells us tales of his birthplace and he mentions the difficulties of getting around with a disability, as a tourist on a quad bike plays in the distance. 'I'd like one of those' he says.
He spends a lot of his life up here above the sea but you get the feeling that he would like to be able to get out more. But this does not stop him from smiling and being a most gentle host.
Back at the house , which is stunning, Dad is waiting to greet us, tea and hospitality of course. Mum is busily making Argan oil the traditional way. By hand! It is fascinating to see and be told the process first hand. It is hard work, the two and half litres she makes have taken the whole day to prepare. We are given a small bottle to take away with us and are invited to eat bread, oil and eggs. Washed down with tea of course.
This last photo is a stunner, with Fatima offering Krysia this intimacy with a smile. It just happens and in a moment two mums connect, one whose son has been compromised most of his life and the other whose sons life......well, love you Jon.
It has been a most remarkable day. We are blessed with this life we have and are constantly reminded of how fortunate we are. Love you Jaimie
Love to you all
Ted and Krysia xxx
