Time Travel

15^th and 16^th February

The motorbike is unpacked today, for the first time this trip. We need to send our blog and some firewood would be nice. So we set off in search of signal, taking the new road up to the top of hills surrounding Imessouane. We pause to take in the view before moving on to our first sighting of an aerial, where we stop and under the shade of a tree , we try out the computer without success.

 As we sit and wonder where to next, along the road comes a pair of mules pulling a wagon, being driven by what becomes evident, are europeans! A feisty lady leads the mules by example with her strong armed fellow pushing and yelling from behind. What a sight, which we are able to share with you as Krysia took a stunning photo, with smiles of consent coming from our happy travellers, who succeeded in taking us back a century or two, in a matter of seconds! Believe it or not, they later turned up in the campsite for the night, grazing their mules and taking a break. It turns out that they have travelled Morocco, including the sahara, from M'hamid to here, travelling at 30 kms a day. They are Spanish. And are time travellers!

On we ride in search of signal and as we pass the turning to the original road to Imessoune, we spot an enormous mast covered with the dishes that tell us, we have lift off!! Under the shade of the nearest Argan tree, we get full connection to the internet! It's hard to take it in, miles from any town, in the middle of Argan country, with goats climbing trees in front of us! We are online! This is how we can send our blogs and also find out that our tv license is about to run out, could we please renew blah, blah, blah. As I send the pre-written blogs and photos, Krysia is busy collecting firewood in this timeless countryside. ( the bible meets iphone sort of thing ). It is delightful to be here.

I wander off to ask a shepherd if I can photograph his goats up trees and he is happy for me to do so. Crazy goats on top of the thorniest trees you've ever seen. A classic image of these parts of Morocco. The shepherd declines an invitation to have his portrait taken which is not a surprise. No harm in asking but I feel it's proper to respect his privacy. We slowly drive the old road back to the campsite in the heat of the afternoon. It's all a bit more immediate on the bike, a bit closer to it all.

The day has not finished yet, with a long walk into the hills that takes us to a high ridge overlooking the coastline and a campsite fire to end our day's adventures.

 This Thursday has been a most stimulating journey through time !

Friday 17^th

Everyday a winner so far and today is another one! After breakfast we go to the port and get immersed in the auction. From 8ft conger eels to sardines, lobsters to cuttlefish, all the nights catch is paraded, weighed and then auctioned. Heated arguments break out and then subside as the important business of money is discussed. It's a buyers market and the fishermen want the best price, yet it's the power of bidding that wins the day. There's no argument with that!

We calm down from all the excitement with a cup of coffee overlooking the harbour, in the hot sunshine we take the opportunity to sketch the landing boats. It's an intoxicating scene.

As Krysia's painting shows .

We buy two fish at a stall, Shrin they are called in Arabic, possibly horse mackrel? 10 dirhams each, gutted for 2Dh, Whatever they were, we took them back to the campsite, lit a barby and cooked our most wonderful fish in the afternoon sun. They were delicious. Eaten with fresh bread and a salade, food doesn't get any better.

I find myself giving photography lessons to a pleasant fellow named Hamid, he asked for help yesterday and we've seen him again today. He is a shopkeeper and has bought a canon digital camera similar to ours and wants to know how to use it. He's so keen, he's a pleasure to talk to. In amongst fishermen, shepherds and time travellers, we now have an english speaking moroccan, who runs the cyber cafe and lives out on the point in a one room block house he's built to escape the madness of Casablanca. The sun sets over the sea as we talk about apertures and shutter speeds, iso settings and depth of field. Imessoune is beginning to work it's magic on us, it's not how it looks but how it feels thats important here. At a glance, you could say it's a bit of a dump! A mish mash of out of place buildings, surf shops and plastic fires, block buildings and fancy new houses. Underneath, a certain magic permeates one's senses. It might be hard to leave! We shall see.

Another walk into the hills for more firewood before our chat with Hamid in front of the sunset, brings another day to a close. Another fine day in Imessouane.

And in the spirit of adventure, here is a picture Jaimie sent us of her and Storm in front of their new camper van they have bought in Australia. You look so happy Jaimie, you too Storm. May your adventures be wonderful. There is nothing quite like one's first van, the beginning of many adventures to come and who knows where the road will lead.

All our love

xxx